Brunello Di Montalcino,Tuscany's sweet spot makes the world's best Sangiovese-based reds
Two years later Siena fell, but her leaders escaped. Montalcino defiantly gave shelter to them and their ideals of freedom, knowing full well that the government-in-exile--the Republic of Siena in Montalcino--would enrage the Medicis. Volunteers arrived from as far off as Piedmont to defend Montalcino, but they were not enough.
In the end, Montalcino fell as much from peace as from war: When France (Siena's ally) and Spain (Florence's) came to terms, embattled Montalcino was helpless, and soon the Medici crest was hung on the fortress wall, where it remains today. That began a long decline for the city; it lasted centuries and was ended only by a development in the world of wine: the creation of Brunello di Montalcino.
The region's farmers had made wine for centuries. Their red, called vermiglio, played a small role in the siege of 1553, when the garrison commander, pale with tension and hunger, rubbed it into his cheeks, thus simulating a healthy complexion to reassure his troops. In the 1600s, the English kings Charles II and William III favored a wine they called "Mont Alchin." Moscadelletto, a sweet white dessert wine, was praised by the poet Francesco Redi - and re-created, in our own time, as a moscadello Banfi calls "FloruS."
A breakthrough came in the late 1800s, when attention was focused on the Brunello grape (it was actually Sangioveto Grosso, a clone of Chianti's Sangiovese). This superior variety, carefully handled and extra-aged, yielded superior wine, but news spread slowly because Italy's reputation in the wine world was held down by overproduction and lack of regulation.
Market success began in the 1960s. DOC regulations gave quality a chance to stand out, and Brunello won DOC status in 1966 (it became the first of the elevated DOCG wines in 1980). Its "little brother," Rosso di Montalcino, from the same grape (but aged only one year instead of four), showed enough class to win DOC rank in 1984.
Thus has Montalcino awakened from its long sleep. It's still a quiet little city, but that's mostly because the wine speaks for itself.
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